Sailing Video from Barefoot Offshore Sailing School

Video compilation of our 7 day sailing trip with Barefoot Offshore Sailing School

Alternative link: http://youtu.be/YcC9Vn8k16U

Mark's Minute: Scuba Day

While Suzy took a day off after the strenuous hike, I decided to add two more dives to my scuba log book. At 8 am, Serenity Dive School speed-boated me to Buccamont Bay (where Suzy and I had snorkeled already) to meet up with four other divers. Since my last dive happened four years ago, they kindly reminded me of some scuba basics. The first 60 ft. dive had some strong currents. To my dismay, towards the end of the dive, I struggled through some buoyancy issues. I realized that I should have added some extra weight to my belt. The second dive was much calmer at 50 ft. and the added 2 lbs. gave me perfect buoyancy. We saw spotted goat fish, blueheads and ocean surgeon fish. When I arrived at the hotel at 1 pm I couldn't wait to shower and take a nap. I always forget how draining two hours under water can be. Suzy and I wrapped up the night with a beautiful sunset and some local food from down the street. Off to Trinidad tomorrow.

Suzy doesn't know how to sit still for a photo

Last sunset in paradise!

The Epic Volcano Hike

Panoramic view!

When we first researched St. Vincent, I read about the La Soufriere volcano hike and knew I wanted to do it.  However, there wasn't a ton of information on how to do it and our research at the bar the other night elicited a lot of suggestions to have a guide since the trail isn't well maintained.  Well a guide and taxi was $250 so that wasn't happening.  We decided to dollar bus it to the start and just go from there.  So early Sunday morning, we eventually caught a bus about an hour north on the windward coast to the Rabacca stop.  Unfortunately, we thought we could get more food and water in Georgetown but the little shop only had soda and cookies.  So we stocked up.  Then out of the blue, a guy in a tie-died shirt popped out of a white car and asked if we wanted a ride up to the trailhead.  We hopped in with Ross and Nikki from England and their father Phil who currently lives and farms on Canouan island nearby.  So we started hiking with Ross and Nikki in the foggy rain past endless banana trees.  It was fun to learn more about them and their little 18 month old boy Charlie who was spending the day with his grandparents.  Up and up we went until we finally reached the volcano rim at about 3,800 feet.  It was actually a little cold as the fog swept over the ledge.  We kept hiking up and around the south edge of the rim until we reached blue skies and had a great view down in the the crater and east towards the expansive Caribbean sea.  It was absolutely beautiful!

On the way up, we were passed by a barefoot local who was going to visit his brother who worked on the mountain.  We knew that meant his brother worked on the marijuana fields that exist on the east side where they can grow with minimal disruption by the police (since it is an illegal but apparently highly profitable export).

Eventually we reached the other side and then became perplexed about which trail would eventually lead us down the leeward side.  We saw two locals come up a ridge and we asked them if that was the trail and they said no, that wasn't the trail for tourists.  They also looked quite stoned.  It was only after they walked away that I realized they were each carrying machetes!  While sitting down for lunch, the first barefoot guy came back by and thankfully informed us of the right trail down where we would have 'no problems'.

While the windward trail up was wide and even had stairs in places, the leeward trail was narrow, muddy, uneven and barely cut through the head-tall trees.  And we knew it was longer, about 9-10 miles so even though we could see our destination, it made for a pretty rough trip down.  The whole time, we passed little tents and large swaths of marijuana fields on the ridge next to us.  We definitely didn't take any pictures of the farms but did laugh that we were more harm to ourselves trying to walk down this crazy path than we were to them!

Eventually we reached a ravine that led us right out to the ocean.  Just before that, we finally met some other non-business hikers, a French and Swiss guy who were hiking up to spend the night in the crater.  We decided they were crazy but wished them well.  Mark and Ross took a dip in the ocean and Nikki and I eventually even shed our shoes to walk in the water.  A local man talked to us for a while about his marijuana farm which he was heading up to and even invited us to go with him for a tour.  Since it was already 4, we kindly declined but it was interesting to hear about the network of farmers who help notify each other when the police come to raid and burn their farms.  Mostly though, as long as they don't cause trouble, the police leave them alone.  When I asked him if he would like it to be legal to do his business, he said no, he likes it the way it is.

A little further down, we joined up with Phil and met his wife Helen and Charlie who had befriended a young local boy who was also carrying a machete.  We were so thankful for water and food and then all 7 of us crammed in to their rental car and started heading back down the coast.  We were passed by a funeral procession which seemed more like a parade in the streets (not a bad way to go!) and stopped at a marina to stretch our legs.  There, we were told about a beautiful rock wall nearby that we then went to visit.  While beautiful, the children who wanted to be in my photo were more entertaining.

A marijuana farmer coming down the trail.  We were just at the top of that mountain!

Charlie befriended a local kid with a machete

                                     

About an hour later, we got back to the home the Brits were staying at and Helen quickly cooked up a delicious dinner that was actually a proper English breakfast of meat, potatoes, eggs and beans.  It was amazing after such a long hiking day!  They were so kind to host us and were such a fabulous family to talk to.  Around 10, Ross and Nikki drove us the short ways back to our hotel and we said regrettably said good-bye.  It was a wonderful day, completely made possible by their generosity!

Sailing Last Day- Bequia to St. Vincent

    While Nancy, Adam and Ed rode ashore for coffee and to return a dinghy plug that didn't fit, Mark and I packed and readied the sail.  Yes, we can do that all alone now!  After pulling up the anchor for the last time, we motorsailed out of the bay and along the northern coast of Bequia for a while in order to tack and then catch a nice smooth sail directly in to the Blue Lagoon of St. Vincent.  The wind has settled down to a more manageable 10-15 knots in the past few days which was more pleasant.  We pulled in just shy of 11 am which meant we were able to dock the boat and complete our post-trip de-brief before lunchtime.  Nancy graduated us all through ASA 104 and gave us our ASA logbooks.  While we are very appreciative to have received this advanced certification, it is absolutely a fact that we would need a lot more time out on an actual boat before we could ever safely charter one on our own.  I think my comfort level would be with shorter, more manageable sailing excursions.  Thankfully Mark realizes this too and so we can continue our relationship now that an around the world sailing trip is off the table :)

Bequia

Beautiful views of the northern coast

Look Ma, no hands!

Mark setting up the GoPro!  Thanks Bro!

    After a bittersweet good-bye to Ed (he is off to Barbados to meet his wife for another week in paradise to celebrate their 20th anniversary! Congrats Ed and Mariah!), I finally got a real shower which felt amazing!  Today feels somewhat like coming in from a longer backpacking trip where you feel accomplished and happy but so thankful for a shower and stable ground (ok, that part may just be about sailing).  We sauntered down the road for some St. Vincent street food which was delicious tuna, swordfish, plantains, rice and more for a mere $10 total.  Later we'll venture to the beach bar for a last drink with Nancy, our skipper!

Sailing Day 6- Mayreau to Bequia

Today we left our peaceful mooring ball for the high seas back to Bequia.  After getting a little bit too much sun the last few days (even with copious sunscreen applications), I opted for a long sleeve.  Everything is starting to smell like salt and sweat!

Trying to NOT end up like that shipwreck!

Look at that keel! 

Captain Suzy and Mark

Upon arrival in Bequia, we cleaned up and went ashore for our first wifi in 5 days and a tasty beverage.  Mark wanted to buy me a nice colorful necklace but I turned him down since the price was pretty steep and soon enough we'll be in Guatemala where we'll have plenty of shopping opportunities I'm sure.  Then we saddled up to Papa's, passing through the bumping street music and dancing of an island Friday night.  After dinner, we rode the dinghy back to our boat away from home.  This part is very new to me: being out on the water at night.  The water is so black and ominous and I had to fend off my fears of sinking.  You'd think I wasn't a Pisces-born swimmer with these fears I've been trying to overcome this week!

Mark and a very polite Stumpy

Sunset in Bequia

Sailing Day 5- Union Island to Mayreau

    Besides a big steady cruise ship, I've never spent this much time on a boat. I tend to appreciate the stability of ground but the views from a boat are very special. Looking west this morning, I see nothing but vast ocean and if I headed out that way I'd probably end up in Central America about 2,000 miles away.  

    In the morning, we charted our path to Mayreau, pulled off the sail cover, hoisted the mainsail (only in to the wind of course) and tacked our way northeast to Salt Whistle Bay on the island of Mayreau.  Here we practiced tying up to a mooring ball (a lot easier than dropping the anchor) and swam ashore to walk along the most beautiful stretch of quiet pristine beach.  We joined up with Ed to trek back to the beach over this rocky road (we ended up wearing our fins to walk in which would have made for a funny photo!).  At the beach, we cracked open a cold Hairoun beer, the local beverage.  Adam soon found us on his walk back from town with a dozen eggs and fresh bread in hand.  We swam back, showered and fired up the BBQ for Adam's burgers and Ed, Mark and I's specialty salad of beans, corn, mango, cheese, cucumbers and Mark's fabulous homemade dressing (complete with mango).  It's amazing how good these on-boat meals can be, especially when you work up an appetite sailing and swimming in the sun!

Charting our course

Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau

Paying our mooring fee

Gourmet dinner!  Complete with Ed's wine from Bequia

   

Sailing Day 4- Tobago Cays to Union Island

     We awoke to rain and gray skies. Our original plan to snorkel with the turtles was swapped out for fixing the electrical system which gave out and switching propane tanks so we could finish the eggs. Our boat is pretty old but also provides lots of opportunities to learn how to keep a boat in working order.

Practicing our knots.  Bowline anyone?

We loved our crazy new snorkel masks!

     Then we reviewed and took the ASA 104 test which was rough but thankfully we all passed. Finally it was clear enough to snorkel by the reef which was amazing! All sorts of beautiful colorful fish and corals. It was phenomenal. Then we sailed about 1 1/2 hours to Union Island and pulled in to the most beautiful bay just as the sun was setting. Finally, it was quiet and the swim/shower in the ocean was peaceful.  

Selfie with Mark at the helm

Had to do a Titanic photo!

      Once ready, we rode the dinghy to shore and had the most amazing meal ever at Tim's place. There were just two shacks on this beach and only 10 boats in the bay. So it felt like we had the place to ourselves. Tim cooked up the most amazing family style meal of coconut curry conch, chicken legs and ribs, veggie rice, fresh coleslaw salad, fried plantains, garlic potatoes and Caravelle fish.  Followed by a fried banana dessert.  All enjoyed with my toes in the sand.  I'm sad I didn't bring my camera ashore to photograph the amazing meal.

My favorite photo of Ed and Mark enjoying a cold one at sunset.

Sailing Day 3- Bequia to Tobago Cays

     Today we had a full day of sailing ahead of us down to Tobago Cays. We started off after breakfast and had huge swells tipping the boat every few seconds. It was intense and a workout when I was at the helm. About three hours in to this, I had to go below to use the head (bathroom in sailing lingo) which was a very bad idea. The sway of the cabin instantly made me more nauseous and upon return to the top, I quickly lost my breakfast over the stern. It was funny though that Mark had taken over the helm when I was down below so we joked that I can partly blame his driving skills for my seasickness.
     Soon we arrived and the beauty of this remote cay made me forget the crazy ride. We saw a turtle swim by and the most beautiful sunset yet. After taking our ASA 103 test, we bbq'd a delicious cabbage and chicken meal right off the back of the boat. 

Ed steering us expertly to Tobago Cays

The trick to a good backboat BBQ?  Lots of lighter fluid.

All smiles after the rough sailing day

Sailing Day 2- Sailing near Bequia

    After a pretty good night of sleep on the boat, we awoke to a sunny morning in the bay of Bequia.  We went over charting, navigation and spent the morning tacking and jibing a ways out from the bay. It was stressful! The second I'm at the helm of this 44 foot boat in these large swells, I forget everything.  But we all did ok and learned a lot. The keel of these boats is impressive. I feel like we are going to capsize but we're not.

    Then it was lunch time and to prepare the dinghy to go to shore for provisions and to stretch our sea legs.  We bought fresh mangoes, yummy ice cream and thirst-quenching coconut water.  Then back to boat for our afternoon swim. It's pretty easy and freeing to shower right off the back of the boat and then dry out quickly in the wind.

    After a gin and tonic that our friendly fellow student Ed mixed for everyone, we came ashore again for a fabulous fish dinner at Jack's Bar. Wow, this place is gorgeous! The lights of the bar, the fresh air and the waning sunlight makes for a magical evening!

Where are we going today Suzy?

Nancy and Ed picking out mangoes

Local kids at the market

Water straight from the coconut

Ed, Adam, Nancy and Mark as we head to dinner, barefoot and happy