Tuesday, May 19, 2015

Two Days on Lake Titicaca and Lima - Last Blog!

Soon, Karen, Erika and I were on a boat ride towards the floating island of Uros. With our guide Esteban, we learned more about the lake and the people who call it home.  After about an hour, our first stop was Uros, the unique floating islands.  Here, about 50 reed islands exist and although they are quite commercial now, they were originally built centuries ago so the Aymara-speaking people could quietly live their own life without intrusion.  The lives of the Uros are completely interwoven with the reeds which are constantly replenished from the top since the reeds rot away from below.
Esteban showing us that even though we'll travel by boat for a few hours, we will only see a small part of the lake!
The reeds are about 2 meters (6ish feet) deep!
The chief showing us how they maintain the islands
Karen working hard to row the reed boat
We then floated to Amantani Island where we met our host mother Flora and she walked us back to her home for lunch. We met her husband and Lillian, her 19 year old daughter and her 8 month old son Tiago who had the cutest, chubbiest cheeks. 
Tiago was very intrigued by his new international friend Chase (Erika's nephew of the same age)
Abuela carrying little Tiago
Soon the middle daughter 16 year old Betsy arrived home from school and while walking to the Plaza to meet the rest of the group, we met the youngest girl, 10 year old Madeline. Later I spoke with Betsy and she was very excited to leave the island but said she loved growing up here.  
At the plaza, we started walking up and up to the highest point on the island at well over 13,000 feet. Pachamama is  a ceremonial center on the highest part of the island which is only used once a year for the largest island festival and there are a few other ruins from the Tiwanaku culture.  Now most of the land is used for agriculture. Still, the sunset from this high vantage point was beautiful!
We returned for dinner and then it was time for the big show.  We could tell Flora wasn't too excited for the nights festivities but she dutifully wrapped us up in traditional dress and we joined the rest of the tours at the local dance hall. I thoroughly enjoyed the local music but the dancing was a little cheesy.  We made the best of it and let Flora leave early so that seemed to make her happy.  Plus, we wanted to get in to our warm beds since life at 12,500 feet gets cold at night!
The next day, we had a lovely breakfast and Flora walked us back to the dock.  She very sweetly bid us a fond farewell, calling us one of her many daughters out there in the world.  We soon arrived to the Taquile island which has been inhabited for many thousands of years (per Lonely Planet).  The Quechua-speaking islanders made a living through beautiful weaving and are known for their floppy hats which delineate the married and single inhabitants. 
The scenery reminded us of the Mediterranean, just a bit cooler though! 
Sorry ladies, red and to the right means married.  
We enjoyed a delicious fish lunch while overlooking the beautiful blue lake.  Supposedly 60% of Lake Titicaca is Peruvian and 40% is Bolivian but Esteban told us that Bolivians probably swap those percentages in their favor.
We napped in the sun on the way home and enjoyed a lovely dinner at our bnb.  The next day, we returned to Lima and were thankful for the comfort of Miguel and Balvi's home after a bus, plane and crazy taxi ride.  We enjoyed pedicures, pasta and wine to celebrate our last night of this incredible journey together!  
Had to buy some last minute mangos, granite fruit and some other fruits I can't remember now!  So yummy!
The next day, we treated Miguel to a local lunch in appreciation and soon were back at the airport, awaiting our flights home!  What a fun, fabulous, whirlwind, beautiful, crazy, hectic, heart-filling adventure!  Thanks for following along.  Excited for the next adventures back in Colorado!

Girl's Trip from Cusco to Puno

It was hard to say goodbye to Mark the morning after our trek but I knew I'd see him back in Colorado very soon!  This was the first day in 130 some days that we wouldn't spend together but Erika made it all better by hooking us girls up with a night at the luxurious JW Marriot. I consoled myself with a massage and 5 hours in the spa area. We didn't want to leave this amazing hotel but alas, we were on a bus to Puno, near Lake Titicaca, the next day. Along the way, we stopped at churches, ruins and the highest point of the trip at 4,300 meters (14,100 feet). 
You know, just hanging out on a wobbly, couple hundred of years old bridge
The locals choose the more reliable bridge
Llama party!
Breathless smiles over 14,000 feet!
Seriously can't get enough of these sweet beings
Sheep on the other hand are annoying.  Except these guys who were having a convo with this lil guy
Puno is the stopping off point for tours and excursions on the ginormous Lake Titicaca.  It's not the prettiest town but apparently is known as the folklore capital of Peru and hosts some phenomenal festivals.  We were here for one reason: explore the bigger than life Lake Titicaca.  The lake covers 8400 square kilometers (3243 square miles) and sits at 3808 meters (12,500 feet) and is considered the world's largest high-altitude lake. Per Lonely Planet, "at this altitude the air is crisp and sunlight suffuses the altiplano and sparkles on the deep waters."  We were excited to see sparkles!

Monday, May 18, 2015

Day 1 of the Inca Trek: KM 82 to Tres Piedras (10,100 feet)

Before dawn, we were on the bus to Ollantytambo for breakfast before continuing on to Km 82, the starting point for the Inca Trail trek. Here we packed in our rented sleeping bags and pads, loaded up on sunscreen and bug spray and took our first family photo under the starting sign of the trail.
The group, smiling and happy on Day 1!
Hiking along the Rio Urubumba
Our guides were Manuel (Manny) and Pepi (Pepito), our chef was Benedicto and another 17 porters (chastkis) made up our traveling family for the 4 days on the trail. The first day was easy and hot as we walked along the river and past Inca ruins at the Llactapata and Wayllabamba sites.
Soon we stopped at lovely lunch spot where the chef and porters were waiting for us with soup, potatoes and tea. The food on the trail is amazing! They set up a tent and served us fresh and delicious food every time.
Mark protecting our packs from stray sheep
Lunch time!
Karen is not a fan of the Chichi homebrewed beer
By now, we were also starting to get to know our other trekkers who included a group of girls from DC, a couple from Florida, two from the Bay Area, a Kiwi couple living in Australia, an Aussie, a British couple and us. Everyone was very nice and excited to be on the trail. We eventually made it up to our first camp spot where most people celebrated with Cusquenes, the local beer before dinner. As Day 2 would be our most difficult, we all went to sleep by 830.

Day 2 of Inca Trail over Dead Woman's Pass (13,800 feet) to Paq'amayo (11,480 feet)

Manny and Pepito greeted us before 6 am with tea in our tents which is a fabulous way to wake up I decided. As it was our long day, we soon were on the trail again.
Karen and Erika smartly decided on using a porter for their big packs today while Mark and I tried to press on with them. Unfortunately, Mark soon started feeling worse and worse with stomach pains. I hated seeing him in pain and tried to take things from his pack but the weight was still making him hurt. Thankfully, Gavin had come back to get his girlfriends pack and she sent him further down to get Mark's since she had passed us when Mark was resting. So that helped Mark get to the second breakfast stop. He lied down and I brought him ginger tea and soon he was feeling a little better.
Mark resting and feeling much better without a pack!
We opted for a porter to carry his bag the rest of the way which allowed us to reach the top of Dead Women's Pass just as a slight rain was moving in. The view up at 3,800 meters (13,800 feet) was shrouded in clouds but we were happy to make it there.
Mirador?  Can't see anything in these clouds!
Then we continued slowly down the many, many slippery steps before arriving at camp Paq'amayo at 11,480 feet.
Mark took a nap and I chatted with Karen and Erika until dinner time. Thankfully Mark was feeling well enough to join us for some dinner but he will wisely be careful with what he eats now.