Day 4 (3/2): Los Perros to Refugio Grey (14 km, 8.7 miles, peak altitude 1200 meters, 3930 feet)

Since there was no hope of leaving before 9:30 and we didn't have to take down our tent, we slept til 8, ate a hearty oatmeal breakfast and were ready to go when we got word from the rangers that we could thankfully continue. It even seemed like the sun was trying to peer out so we were optimistic that the weather would cooperate today. We hiked up through more mud though this time we were prepared with gaiters and all our waterproof gear on.  We soon reached treeline where the path was only rocks up to the pass. Thankfully we could see in the distance so continued but soon the snow started falling and the wind was wiping it around us. As the snow began to rise with every meter we gained in altitude, we were thinking to ourselves that on a Colorado hike we would have already turned around.  But on this hike, the promise of a warm, dry bed on the other side kept us moving!

The clear skies quickly turned in to snow!

 We made it to the top about 2 1/2 hours after we started, paused for a very quick photo and then worked our way quickly down out of the wind.

 As we lowered, the snow and clouds subsided and finally saw the ginormous Glacier Grey spread out before us. It began in the clouds to the right and extended all the way to our left.  Just phenomenal!

Even the panorama option doesn't do this glacier view justice!

Soon we reached a very steep downhill descent through the trees and reached Campamento Paso 4 1/2 hours after we left Los Perros. Though we planned on staying here, this free camp spot looked wet and baren and only a windshield (versus a shed) to cook in so we ate a quick dehydrated meal and kept going.  However, we did have the camp ranger radio ahead a Refugio reservation because I decided this day was the perfect excuse to splurge a little for my birthday!  Another 3 hours or so of hiking along the glacier and over 2 very long and somewhat scary suspension bridges (reminded me of Nepal) led us to Refugio Grey.  

That's a long ways down but the view next to the glacier was phenomenal!

Looking back at the glacier edge as we neared Refugio Grey.

Finally a place to dry our clothes (and selves)!  Slept like a queen!

At the Refugio, we were shown our room with 3 empty bunks and immediately started laying stuff out to dry. After a hot shower, I felt like a new woman! We cooked our delicious chicken teriyaki dehydrated meals in the camping cook area and followed it with desert of the Nutella wraps heated up in our pan. We enjoyed conversations with Spanish and Chilean hikers and finally fell asleep in our quite and dry Refugio beds (we ended up with the whole room to ourselves even). This pre-birthday splurge was exactly what we needed!

Day 5 (3/3): Refugio Grey to Campamento Paine Grande (10 km, 6.2 miles) and Suzy's Birthday!

Waking up dry and warm (especially since it was windy and rainy outside) was awesome! Mark surprised me with a sweet card that he carried all the way from Colorado and a Refugio breakfast of eggs, salami, cheese and toast. A perfect start to my birthday here in Chile!  At breakfast, we met a guy from San Diego named Kerry who was celebrating his birthday too!  He was hiking the W with his 5 months pregnant sister Kaitlyn (she gets adventure points for doing this pregnant!) and her husband Brandon.  We made plans to meet for drinks in Paine Grande to celebrate that evening.  We slowly packed and geared up for the rain, leaving around 11 for Paine Grande. 

We really need to get new, non-matching gear!

We are now on part of the W trail so encountered as many people within the first few kilometers as we did the whole four days on the backside. The weather soon cleared and we said adios to Glacier Grey behind us but had fabulous views of Lago Grey to our right and the huge Cerro Paine Grande mountains to our left. And wind. The wind here was the strongest we have experienced yet and would have knocked us over a few times if we didn't have sticks to support our weight. 

Thankfully my hat had a good strap but it still wanted to blow away in these winds!

After 3 1/2 hours, we approached the crystal blue of Lago Pehoe and saw Refugio and Campamento Paine Grande ahead. 

Birthday camp spot with quite a view!

 We set up our tent by the hill to minimize wind but it was still quite a feat. We even put rocks on the stakes to ensure it would stay put! For my birthday dinner, we enjoyed a nice glass of wine and a delicious Refugio dinner of chicken, potatoes and flan (complete with the candles Mark trekked in).  The whole room ended up joining in on singing Happy Birthday to Kerry and I!

 I would have felt a little guilty enjoying these comforts on a typical backbacking trip but it's part of the Torres del Paine experience and hey, it's my birthday! What a fun day with a great guy in a very special place!

Day 6 (3/4): Paine Grande to French Valley to Los Cuernos (22.5 km, 14 miles)

When we opened the tent, we were greeted with a beautiful sunrise over the mountains!  It was like a painting and I'm so glad I opened my tent to see it! 

 Thankfully my now 32 year old feet were feeling more rested after the short day prior and I was ready for a long but scenic day ahead.  We left at 9 and through some rain and sun, arrived at Italiano, a rough looking free camp that I'm glad we didn't stay at. Here we left our packs tied in the trees because I saw a mouse near the shelter and didn't want our packs to be lunch!  We then hiked up the French Valley with only a light daypack. It felt great! Except it was up and up to the first Mirador of the amazing hanging glacier, Glaciar del Frances, looming above us.

Then we hike up more (about 1800 feet up in elevation) to the last viewpoint at Mirador Britanico.  We scarfed our sandwiches and enjoyed the great views of the massive peaks surrounding us. We ran in to the San Diego crew and they helped us take lots of photos in the beautiful valley. 

 While I would have wished for more sun, the rain at least stayed away for the most part. We walked back down, stopping for more photo ops along the way.

 We met up with the 6 Israelis and they really seemed to be enjoying this hike less and less (especially after crossing the pass in even more snow than we had since they left later).  We wished them well but wouldn't see them again until the bus stop in Puerto Natales when we learned they all left a day early (skipped Torres) because they were exhausted and said it reminded them too much of their time fighting in the military.  We also never saw Pami and Ignacio again but heard they made it over the pass fine too.  Around 5, we left Italiano with our packs again and slogged the next 1 1/2 hours to Los Cuernos. We hiked along Lago Nordernskjold, even down along the waters edge, before reaching Los Cuernos.

 At Los Cuernos, we put the tent up quick and enjoyed a much needed and earned feast of noodles and chicken, soup and the last of the Nutella wraps heated up with some condensed milk our German neighbors lent us. It was delicious.  I really enjoy the cooking part, mainly because our meals really only require hot water and the company of fellow hikers from all over the world is a lot of fun.  It was also definitely time for a hot shower which certainly makes it worth it for these paid camps.

Day 7 (3/5): Los Cuernos to Campamento Torres (16 km, 10 miles)

Our calm evening transitioned to rain and wind overnight. Sure, the rain brings nice rainbows but I didn't sleep well, thinking our tent was going to blow away, and so in the morning, I decided I was over it. Over the rain, the wind, the cold, the pack, the hiking.  

 A delicious granola breakfast and a somewhat clear sky made me feel better though and we left around 1030 to Torres. We ate lunch at the shortcut turnoff to Chileno and had snippets of sun before climbing up and up and back in to the clouds and rain. 

We had met up with our San Diego friends and were sad to leave them in the warmth of their Refugio as we slogged another hour up to free campsite Torres. Thankfully, this at least meant we only had an hour hike up to Torres to watch the sunrise tomorrow. We quickly set up our tent before the rain got heavy again and cooked up our last dehydrated meal. Thank goodness we brought those from the US! They were so perfect for this backpacking trip. Unfortunately, it kept raining and again, I was so over it so we went to bed early with all our layers on (we are back up at 600 meters so I predicted a cold night ahead). This sunrise better be good tomorrow!

Going to sleep all bundled up and it was still light out.

PS- I realized I only took a few photos today because of the rain and again, I was over it.  Thankfully Mark was very motivating and I don't think I would have gone all the way up to Torres without his encouragement!

Day 8 (3/6): Torres to Hotel Las Torres (10 km, 6.2 miles)

After a cold and restless night, we awoke at 5 am to pack our sleeping bag, pad, every clothing item I brought and food in to our packs before hiking up the 1 km to Torres.  We ascended over 300 meters (1000 feet) by headlamp and since it was still dark, we kept going up the rocks as the faint light started to brighten the sky.  We found a rocky overlook with some wind protection and settled in to watch the sun rise.

Dressed in everything we owned to stay warm!

And waited and waited.  An hour later, the light started to reflect off the towers and it was incredibly beautiful!  We took a ton of photos, partly because moving around also helped keep us warm!  After sunrise, we came down to the waters edge.  

After 3 hours, we finally had to leave in order to pack up camp (I didn't even care anymore that the tent was soaked in mud) and make our way down to catch the 2 pm bus. 

With a light pack (almost no food left) and light feet (the prospect of a warm bed and hot shower are quite motivating!), we descended to Chileno, treated ourselves to a Coke and then kept going all the way down to Hotel Las Torres.

Wait, so you're saying I could have taken a horse up?!  

Right before the end, we paused by a beautiful lake with a view of the Torres and reflected on our 8 crazy days (we also counted countries visited... I think I'll be at 50 by the time I come home in May!). As we rolled in to the parking lot, the sun was shining, the mountains were looming and we were proud of our accomplishment!

Fist bump at the end!

 A sleepy bus ride home later, we turned in our rental gear, cleaned up and treated ourselves to beer, tacos and burgers at the local cervezeria with our San Diego friends and a table of hikers heading out the next day.  What a fabulous trip!  All in all, we hiked over 70 miles in 6 days and 2 half days and saw glaciers, mountains, lakes and rivers that were absolutely stunning!