The Epic Volcano Hike

Panoramic view!

When we first researched St. Vincent, I read about the La Soufriere volcano hike and knew I wanted to do it.  However, there wasn't a ton of information on how to do it and our research at the bar the other night elicited a lot of suggestions to have a guide since the trail isn't well maintained.  Well a guide and taxi was $250 so that wasn't happening.  We decided to dollar bus it to the start and just go from there.  So early Sunday morning, we eventually caught a bus about an hour north on the windward coast to the Rabacca stop.  Unfortunately, we thought we could get more food and water in Georgetown but the little shop only had soda and cookies.  So we stocked up.  Then out of the blue, a guy in a tie-died shirt popped out of a white car and asked if we wanted a ride up to the trailhead.  We hopped in with Ross and Nikki from England and their father Phil who currently lives and farms on Canouan island nearby.  So we started hiking with Ross and Nikki in the foggy rain past endless banana trees.  It was fun to learn more about them and their little 18 month old boy Charlie who was spending the day with his grandparents.  Up and up we went until we finally reached the volcano rim at about 3,800 feet.  It was actually a little cold as the fog swept over the ledge.  We kept hiking up and around the south edge of the rim until we reached blue skies and had a great view down in the the crater and east towards the expansive Caribbean sea.  It was absolutely beautiful!

On the way up, we were passed by a barefoot local who was going to visit his brother who worked on the mountain.  We knew that meant his brother worked on the marijuana fields that exist on the east side where they can grow with minimal disruption by the police (since it is an illegal but apparently highly profitable export).

Eventually we reached the other side and then became perplexed about which trail would eventually lead us down the leeward side.  We saw two locals come up a ridge and we asked them if that was the trail and they said no, that wasn't the trail for tourists.  They also looked quite stoned.  It was only after they walked away that I realized they were each carrying machetes!  While sitting down for lunch, the first barefoot guy came back by and thankfully informed us of the right trail down where we would have 'no problems'.

While the windward trail up was wide and even had stairs in places, the leeward trail was narrow, muddy, uneven and barely cut through the head-tall trees.  And we knew it was longer, about 9-10 miles so even though we could see our destination, it made for a pretty rough trip down.  The whole time, we passed little tents and large swaths of marijuana fields on the ridge next to us.  We definitely didn't take any pictures of the farms but did laugh that we were more harm to ourselves trying to walk down this crazy path than we were to them!

Eventually we reached a ravine that led us right out to the ocean.  Just before that, we finally met some other non-business hikers, a French and Swiss guy who were hiking up to spend the night in the crater.  We decided they were crazy but wished them well.  Mark and Ross took a dip in the ocean and Nikki and I eventually even shed our shoes to walk in the water.  A local man talked to us for a while about his marijuana farm which he was heading up to and even invited us to go with him for a tour.  Since it was already 4, we kindly declined but it was interesting to hear about the network of farmers who help notify each other when the police come to raid and burn their farms.  Mostly though, as long as they don't cause trouble, the police leave them alone.  When I asked him if he would like it to be legal to do his business, he said no, he likes it the way it is.

A little further down, we joined up with Phil and met his wife Helen and Charlie who had befriended a young local boy who was also carrying a machete.  We were so thankful for water and food and then all 7 of us crammed in to their rental car and started heading back down the coast.  We were passed by a funeral procession which seemed more like a parade in the streets (not a bad way to go!) and stopped at a marina to stretch our legs.  There, we were told about a beautiful rock wall nearby that we then went to visit.  While beautiful, the children who wanted to be in my photo were more entertaining.

A marijuana farmer coming down the trail.  We were just at the top of that mountain!

Charlie befriended a local kid with a machete

                                     

About an hour later, we got back to the home the Brits were staying at and Helen quickly cooked up a delicious dinner that was actually a proper English breakfast of meat, potatoes, eggs and beans.  It was amazing after such a long hiking day!  They were so kind to host us and were such a fabulous family to talk to.  Around 10, Ross and Nikki drove us the short ways back to our hotel and we said regrettably said good-bye.  It was a wonderful day, completely made possible by their generosity!